The central region of Vietnam is a showpiece of the country’s rich history, from the ancient Sa Huynh culture centred in Quang Ngai province to the devastation of war in the former DMZ, or Demilitarised Zone. At the heart of Vietnam is Hue, the imperial capital of the Nguyen kings. A few hours south, the charming old town of Hoi An makes for an exquisitely relaxing break. Centre Vietnam travel tours
Hue travel guide
An imperial citadel still stands proudly in Hue, despite violent bombardment during the Vietnam War (1954–75) by the Viet Cong and the Americans. Ask Vietnamese about Hue and they’ll often remark that it’s a sad and sleepy city. This may have something to do with the old architecture and crumbling ruins (many of Hue’s residents have built a livelihood based around the city’s past). Hue is also prone to exceptionally rainy weather compared to the rest of Vietnam, particularly in the second half of the year. Emeraude cruise
Once the capital of Vietnam and the seat of the Nguyen dynasty (1802–1945), Hue is located 12km (7 miles) from the coast on a narrow stretch of land in Thua Thien-Hue province, which borders Laos in the west. It's roughly midway between Hanoi to the north and Ho Chi Minh City to the south. Today, the city is one of Vietnam’s more noteworthy attractions, thanks to its eventful history as well as its cultural and intellectual connections, made all the more inviting by its scenic location along the banks of Song Huong – the Vietnamese name for the Perfume River.
Hue is a pretty city, criss-crossed by dozens of bridges, lakes, moats and canals. On the river’s north bank is the ancient imperial citadel and residential areas, while the new commercial area, the old French quarter and the hotel district are all on the south bank. Further south are several tombs that belong to the emperors of the Nguyen dynasty.
Hue is criss-crossed by dozens of bridges, (photo by Peter Stuckings)
What to see in Hue
Kinh Thanh - the Citadel
On the northern side of the Perfume River, Hue’s Citadel (Kinh Thanh) covers some 520 hectares (1,285 acres) and is enclosed by a wall made of stone, brick and earth and measuring 8 metres (26ft) high and 20 metres (65ft) thick.
Entry to the Citadel is by way of 10 fortified gates, each of which is reached by a low, arched stone bridge across the moat. In imperial times a cannon would sound at 5am and 9pm to mark the opening and closing of the gates. The area within the Citadel comprises three enclosures, the first of which was formerly used to accommodate various royal ministries and which today constitutes a pleasant area of parks, gardens and quiet residential districts. Here may be found the Sung Than Cong (Nine Deities Cannons), kept in buildings flanking the gates on either side of the Flag Tower.
Yellow City
A second moat and defensive wall within the Citadel guard the Hoang Thanh (Yellow City), deliberately modelled on the Forbidden City in Beijing. This inner city has four gates, the chief of which is called Cua Ngo Mon (Meridian Gate, also known as the Noon Gate). This majestic structure, built during the reign of Emperor Minh Mang in 1833, is among the finest surviving examples of Nguyen architecture. The central entrance, reserved exclusively for the emperor, is flanked by smaller passages for the use of mandarins and court officials; these in turn are flanked by two much wider passages intended for the royal elephants. Above the Cua Ngo Mon rises Five Phoenix Watchtower where the emperor sat in state during important ceremonies.
Beyond the Ngo Mon Gate, Kim Thuy Kieu (Bridge of Golden Waters), leads between lotus-filled ponds to Dien Thai Hoa (Palace of Supreme Harmony). This was the throne room of the Nguyen Kings, and is the best preserved of Hue’s surviving palaces. Built by Gia Long in 1805, its yellow-tiled roof is supported by 80 massive wooden columns, lacquered a deep red and decorated with imperial golden dragons.
Forbidden Purple City
Immediately behind the throne room, Dai Cung Mon (Great Golden Gate) once led through to Tu Cam Thanh (Forbidden Purple City). This used to be the sole preserve of the emperor, his queen, his many concubines and female palace servants. No man but the king could set foot here on pain of death – imperial sons were banished when they reached puberty, and the only non-females permitted within the inner sanctum were palace eunuchs. In imperial times the Purple City consisted of more than 60 buildings arranged around 20 courtyards, but it was seriously damaged by fire in 1947 and all but destroyed during the Tet Offensive of 1968. Restoration work, based on surviving photographs, plans and some degree of imagination, was begun in the mid-1990s and is now well under way.
Just southwest of the Forbidden Purple City is an area with numerous temples and smaller palaces. Cuong Dien Tho (Dien Tho Palace) was the traditional residence of various queen mothers and contains more than 20 structures, including the lovely Truong Du ?Pavilion, nestled against a small lotus pond. Completely restored, the magnificent Hien Lam Cac (Pavilion of Splendour), towers above the Cuu Dinh (Nine Dynastic Urns). The urns, cast during Minh Mang’s reign, are decorated with motifs of nature ?and daily life, dragons and historic events.
Perfume River
Any visit to Hue should certainly include a boat trip on the beautiful Perfume River. Boats are readily available for hire, either for a relaxing trip in the vicinity of Hue, or for a longer journey upstream to the tombs of Minh Mang and Gia Long. Night journeys on the river with musical ensembles playing traditional court music can be arranged and are an enchanting experience.
The Imperial Tombs
Scattered across the countryside to the south and west of the city, the Tombs of the Nguyen Emperors are, together with the Citadel, Hue’s greatest attraction. These seven tombs, all of which have features of outstanding architectural merit, are often strikingly different.
